Zen and the Art of FE1 Maintenance
FINGERNAIL TEST & SCRATCH REMOVAL
Buffing is a process of mindful subtraction. If you do not understand the depth of the damage, you risk permanent depletion of the clear coat. This protocol outlines how to diagnose surface depth and the precise steps required to restore a mirror finish to JDM paint.
"Dandori hachibu, shigoto nibu" -- 80% of the work is the preparation, the remaining 20% is the manifestation of that effort.
In the spirit of Seiton (functional order), the workspace must be staged before the first abrasive touches the clear coat. Honda paint has a low tolerance for error and a high affinity for friction-heat. Proper Dandori ensures that you are not hunting for a clean microfiber while the compound is drying on a panel.
Cleanse: pH-Neutral Soap Must strip surface oils without adding waxes/silicones.
Decon: Fine-Grade Clay Bar Honda clear is easily marred. Avoid "Heavy" or "Medium" bars.
Abrasive: Diminishing Polish Products like Sonax Perfect Finish are optimized for soft JDM paint.
Kinetic: DA Polisher Dual Action only. Rotary buffers generate excessive heat for Honda clear.
Interface: Closed-Cell Foam Orange (Light Cutting) and Black (Finishing) pads.
Extraction: 500+ GSM Microfiber Soft paint requires high-density fibers to prevent "wipe-induced" marring.
Barrier: Si02 Sealant Essential to prevent UV-induced clear coat failure (a common Honda pain point).
Before you begin, you must see the scratch for what it truly is.
Surface Scratch: Run your fingernail gently over the area. If it slides smoothly without catching, the damage is in the clear coat.
Deep Scratch: If your nail catches or "clicks," you have reached the base paint.
The Reality of Honda Paint: Honda factory clear coat is typically between 35-50 microns thick. If you feel a click, that layer is gone. Do not attempt to buff this out; you will only thin the surrounding clear coat until you hit the primer.
To polish a car with dirt on the surface is to invite further suffering.
The Two-Bucket Wash: Use one bucket for soap, one for rinsing your mitt. This is non-negotiable for an SI.
The Clay Bar Ritual: Honda paint is "sticky," meaning it holds onto rail dust and fallout. Use a fine-grade clay bar with plenty of lubricant. If you use a heavy clay, you will create "marring" (fine scratches) that you'll have to spend hours polishing out later.
For isolated scratches or tight areas around the VTEC or SI badging:
Apply Compound: Place a small amount of compound on a foam applicator pad.
Mindful Pressure: Work a small 1' x 1' area. Use firm, overlapping circular motions.
Wipe & Inspect: Use a clean, high-GSM microfiber. On soft Honda paint, even a dirty towel can cause new scratches.
Polish: Always follow up with a finishing polish. Compound alone will leave a "haze" on JDM paint.
Because Honda clear coat is soft, it reacts very quickly to machine heat.
Safety First: Use a Dual Action (DA) polisher. A rotary buffer creates too much friction-heat, which can "soften" the paint further and lead to "buffer trails."
The Strategy: Start with your lightest pad and finishing polish first. On many JDM vehicles, a finishing polish is enough to remove 80% of swirls. Only move to a cutting compound if the polish fails to give a smooth finish.
The Process: Apply four pea-sized drops to your foam pad. Work in a slow, overlapping grid pattern on speed setting 3 or 4.
You have leveled the surface. Now you must defend it.
Sealant: Honda paint is prone to UV fading. Apply a high-quality synthetic sealant or ceramic coating to provide a sacrificial barrier.
Maintenance: To honor the work you've done, avoid automatic car washes. Stick to touchless washes or the discipline of a hand wash.